Days 91
Start: Three Lakes
Finish: Frog Mountain
Daily Mileage: 21.6
PCT Mile: 1301.6
The terrain started out almost alpine, but continually changed on the descent with the lowering elevation and side of the mountain I was on. I could turn a corner of the mountain and have completely different vegetation immediately. It got quite lush towards the bottom, but the thimbleberries weren’t quite ready over here. However, the poison oak was flourishing and reaching over the trail constantly. I could only do my best to avoid it. One of the reasons I also wear long pants compared with many of the hikers out here who only have shorts. Time will tell if my efforts were sufficient or in vain.
After 36 long switchbacks, the descent finally ended where I crossed a pair of railroad tracks and headed into Belden. Belden is a resort type area, but this weekend they were having a music festival. It brought in lots of people, and as it was Monday when the festival ended, everyone was tearing down. However, my dreams came true and there were still a couple food trucks open selling the last of their food. I was hoping for that which is why I didn’t want to roll in too early.
I ordered bahn mi, then a tomato salad, them some fries to whet my appetite. However, you can’t overdo it when you are hiking out, so I kept my meal modest. I thought about charging while I was there, but I decided I had enough and was anxious to get started on the upcoming climb back up to 7,000 feet with a couple bumps in there. It was a behemoth with 5,500 feet of gain to the top. Getting to the top was my goal for the day since it was about the right mileage and seemed like a good target.
The day was already getting warm when I left Belden. Hot actually. The forecast high was 90, and it felt most of the way there already. Great conditions for such a big climb.
I crossed the Feather River on a road bridge and the trail took off on a traverse of a sun scorched hillside on the other side. I had just started and I was already baking. I wasn’t sure how this was going to go.
Saw a good size rattler, and then the trail turned the corner and started its long ascent. The trail shot up, going far above the creek in the bottom of the valley. My entire body was soon dripping sweat, and I was completely soaked. There was no shade because I’m still traversing the enormous Dixie Fire burn area, and the trail was steep and hot. It was all I could do to keep moving forward.
My body isn’t the best at heat, I do far better in the cold. Sometimes I can’t even drink enough to keep my body hydrated, so that is always a concern for me. Thankfully, the trail crossed stream after stream the entire way up, so water was not an issue. I also took to dunking my hat in the cold water for temporary respites from the sun.
Eventually the trail became slightly less sadistic with an easing of the grade, and I got into a more sustainable pace. However, I struggled for much of the uphill since the ground was rocky and the trail undulated which made it impossible for me to get into a good hard charging uphill pace. I struggled with this for most of the climb.
About half way up, some living trees appeared and a little wind started up, giving slight respite. I was also gaining elevation which helps with the heat, though this might have been balanced with the day warming up.
In any case, most of the climb was a big struggle for me, but I managed to trudge on.
The trail crossed a big creek on a bridge, then back over with a ford. I saw a good opportunity to cool down and stripped down and sat in the creek. It was really refreshing, and a good reset from the heat. It’s also nice to get all the dirt and stink off, even if just for a brief moment.
Heading on was a bit better with 5 miles to go. The trail remained uneven and rocky, but I was refreshed enough to take it on and see that I would be able to summit today as I’d hoped.
After more steep and rocky switchbacks, the trail entered a meadow with a gentle grade and dirt track. It was magical. Even though I was nearing the end of the climb, the trail became super easy and I could have continued that grade for hours.
Then I passed a sign that I was leaving the Sierra Nevada range, and entering the Cascades. It sort of surprised me, but it was just what I needed to pick me up. The Cascades will take me all the way to Canada, and is one of my home mountain ranges. When I thought about it, traversing the desert, crossing the entire Sierra Nevada, and now entering the Cascades to bring me home, I began to tear up and it was a great and impactful moment for me.
I continued up the good trail, grabbed some water at the last spring, and soon made it to the top of the mountain I had been climbing for most of the day. What a relief!
I set up camp at the top of the mountain, the first in the Cascades since it seemed appropriate. From my mountaintop vista Lassen was becoming quite close and prominent, and I could see Mt. Shasta for the first time. Welcome to the Cascades!
A number of hikers passed by my camp, heading on, but I think I have the most perfect and fitting place for the night.
