14 miles
64.6 AZT mile marker
I slept horribly last night, just like the prior night. By sleeping horribly I mean I didn’t sleep much. This often happens to me backpacking. I only slept about 2 hours each night. I just couldn’t get to sleep despite being warm and comfortable. When this happens, the little sleep I do get seems to make up for the deficit and must be deep sleep, because I don’t end up tired. It just sucks laying there for many hours trying to go to sleep.
I got up in time to see the sunrise from my camp spot. It was nice, but there were no clouds to give more brilliant colors. I then went back to the spring I filled up at last night to top off again because I would need my full water capacity for today. On the canyon rim it wasn’t too cold, but it got frigid as I went inland to the grassy knoll where the water catchment was. There was a hard frost on the grass, and the temperature justified that. Amazing how there was such a difference in temperature in such a short distance.
As I was finishing packing up, Mark rolled by. Apparently he didn’t know the exact spot we were talking about camping at and he stopped at the first campsite he saw. He continued on as I finished packing.
I took off through the mixed pine and aspen forest. The aspen were particularly bright and I had glimpses of the canyon to my left as I strolled down easy trail. Despite my lack of sleep, I was in great spirits and thoroughly enjoying the colorful and peaceful trail. A wave of euphoria hit me and I even shed some tears. If yesterday didn’t fully do it, today got me solidly into this trip and looking forward to the experience and adventure.
The trail went through some grassy meadows which were equally cold as where I got my water. The forest was warm in comparison. I caught up to Mark and we talked for a couple hours as we hiked. It is great to have company on the trail because few outside of the experience can fully relate to it. We talked about all things hiking and non-hiking and it was a great accompanyment to the pleasant stroll we were on. It even made me forget about the 8 liters of water on my back, though my shoulders later assured me it was there.
We parted ways at a road crossing. He was continuing on the AZT, but I was taking a diversion to a potentially more scenic route along the canyon rim vs. the AZT which just goes through the forest straight to the North Rim.
I took a good break and then began a 7 mile road walk, retracing my steps still from last year on the Hayduke Trail. Even this road walk couldn’t get my spirits down. It was a dead straight road, but lined with aspen and pretty. At the end of the road is a trailhead that goes down to Nankoweep on the river where I’ve been a couple times. I knew there were great campsites right on the canyon rim looking down the full 6,000 feet to the river, and I grabbed the site furthest out into the canyon to have the spectacular view for the afternoon and hopefully sunrise tomorrow.
I finished early since it was easy and shorter hiking than I had been doing, and relaxed for a bit. It was hot but I eventually decided to do a dayhike on to Saddle Mountain which sticks out a bit further into the canyon and affords more complete views. It was worth the hot side trip and I spent some time at a viewpoint before heading back to camp and setting up for the night.
When it got dark I saw the Milky Way and shooting stars before the moon came up.
These last couple days have been fantastic and represent what thru-hiking should be all about. Enjoy the trail without killing yourself, and meeting and spending time with other like-minded people. It is an adventure that you never know where it will take you, but you have to embrace it and go with it instead of fighting it. Hike how you want, disregarding any judgment from others, and respect the trail and those who maintain it.
